Monumental meat
Maeve Haldane
|
Parthenon: Either rice or potatoes
photo: Joseph Yarmush
|
Parthenon Souvlaki Rotisserie is Greek in a big, yummy way
At an embarrassingly older age, which I'm not keen to let you in on, I finally took my driver's test. I figured doing so on a Friday the 13th couldn't hurt, either. I'd already angered the gods by waiting so long, maybe two negatives would make a positive?George was my examiner. Young, but part of Montreal's old-time Greek community. Out of nervousness, I got chatty. "Any good restaurants around here?" I asked. There's not much around the SAAQ boonies, but we quickly got onto Greek joints.
He said Panama on Jean-Talon was his fave, but who wouldn't? That grilled octopus is among the best in town, and they've sweet juicy lamb too. Would our shared love of cephalopods mean my test was in the bag? Or would it all end in Greek ruins? The next spot he mentioned was Parthenon. I'd heard of it, but never been. Since I was on a roll of new experiences, I planned a visit to the Côte-des-Neiges resto.
I'll confess to being a sucker for foliage-laden trellises. And the interior ceiling grid in Parthenon has real plants twining their leaves through the lattice. Replete with fake grapes, of course.
My gang of four started with the pikilia platter, served with toasted buttered pita quarters. The lovely pink taramasalata of carp roe and bread was a standout for creamy texture and fishy balance. "As good as any I've had in the city," a compatriot declared. The stuffed vine leaves were quickly and happily eaten (is that a touch of mint?), the tzatziki as garlicky and fresh as it should be. Though the spanakopita
was a bit bland, the feta-stuffed tiropita was comforting, like a good mac 'n' cheese. Feta slices were lamentably rubbery, but flavourful. Overall, a platter with true highs.For mains, I couldn't resist the "charcoal stuffed calamari" once it was clear it was plumped not with briquettes but with feta and veg. Probably the winner dish of the table, the three fat grilled squids were perfectly toothsome, charred, and fat with cheese and slightly spicy chopped peppers.
Their brethren of fried calamari were oily and heavy, unfortunately, and a lamb brochette plate featured nice meat, but too little of it. Better off with the three sticks of pork souvlaki, juicy and fatty.
"Hey, this is the only Greek place that doesn't serve both rice and potatoes," a mate pointed out. Instead of carb overloading with cheap stuff on its plates, Parthenon serves thoughtfully prepared veg-studded rice. And don't snicker at the iceberg lettuce salad - the crisp green strips were well dressed and surprisingly satisfying.
We sampled the thick nutty baklava and grainy, milky custard-filled galaktoboureko (yes, the name is related to galaxy, like the milky way). Neither were exemplars of the genre, but would do if you need to assuage a sweet tooth.
We waddled out of the Parthenon, full and faintly garlicky. I proudly started up the car and drove my pals home, for George had deemed me capable of manoeuvring a ton of hurtling steel through Montreal's mean streets. Whether or not he made the right call, I'd say he's a good judge of restaurants.
Parthenon Souvlaki Rotisserie
3543 Van Horne; 514-738-5758
Dinner for two, not including tax, tip, nor booze: $25-$35
I wonder if Maeve thought of the trellis first and then the menu after. Sounds reasonable as far as manu prices go but I could still pay ten for a good souvlaki closer to home on St. Denis, Casa Grecque or Alexander's on Duluth.
|
|
Martin Dansky
|
{4 votes}
|
|
|
Greetings from Buenos Aires!
The Parthenon Restaurant is so fabulous, that I went directly from the airport to eat there the last time I went to Montreal! My experience with the food has been very different than this review would lead one to believe....and I think I have tried everything on the menu at least once over the years! Pikilia Pikilia and PIKILIA! Say no more...the tarama and tzatziki are HEAVENLY!! Just go and eat there. This family run restaurant is just amazing! I think they even let you bring your own wine. So track down a nasty retsina and get down there and have a garlic fest and ENJOY!
|
|
Michael Angell
|
{10 votes}
|
|
|
Very decent Greek food...I am a regular customer because my Action Figure store (Toys on Fire) is located on Van Horne Avenue as well. Service is good. Overall, I would recommend eating at this restaurant.
|
|
David Mark
|
{11 votes}
|
|
|
Van Horne avenue used to be the best kept secret in town in terms of restaurants before this column started spilling the beans on a regular basis but I guess those are the breaks. Better to lose some of your intimate chic than to sink into oblivion because no one talks about you. I am sad to say that it was next to impossible to mess up a simple souvlaki order but bitter experience over the last few months have proven me wrong. There are bad Greek restaurants in Montreal, thankfully this isn't one of them. Good neighborhood, good people, good ambiance, great food and great prices. What more do you need really?
|
|
Pedro Eggers
|
{25 votes}
|
|
|
Just by reading the description of the all the Greek dishes served at this place, I am already planning my visit to this place. I like that they don't serve both rice and potatoes especially for those of us who are trying to cut back on the carbs. The restaurant sounds like a great place to get a terrific Greek meal!
|
|
Florence Nelson
|
{16 votes}
|
|
|
Arghhhh....first you spilled the beans on Village Grec Souvlaki. You told the truth about the disappointment of Marathon and Arahova in the last few years. You mention the best Greek rotisserie Panama where the rabbit is to die for...and now you're letting everyone know about Parthenon!! I do not really need the place to bet any busier!!!! Oh well now that the secret is out you all ought to see what you have been missing!!!! It is called heaven....
|
|
Reuven De Souza
|
{16 votes}
|
|
|
I too am a faithful diner at Panama, but after reading this review I'm willing to give Parthenon a try. I love Greek food and can't wait to go with friends. I always think it's best to go to restaurants like this with a bunch of people so that you can order lots of appetizers to share. And thanks for the heads up that you're now driving on the streets of Montreal. I'll be extra cautious out there!
|
|
Heath Abram
|
{9 votes}
|
|
|
| Great food at great prices |
|
They have the best miltsano dip and fried calamaris. The ambiance is very nice and friendly and the service is fast.
|
|
Zhou Fang
|
{7 votes}
|
|
|
Greek food is one of my favourite cuisines and after reading this review, I am planning my next Greek fix. The pikilia platter sounds wonderful and I look forward to indulging in the charcoal stuffed calamari. I can't wait to try this place and the price sounds right!
|
|
Selena Lobo
|
{9 votes}
|
|
|
