Biarritz. The name conjures up the sort of posh, flashy beach town that money enjoys best. Not that I’ve ever been there, darlings, not to the Basque resort perched on the edge of western France near Spain’s border. But I have been to Biarritz the restaurant, another kind of destination for restoring a relaxed bounce to one’s curls.

The decor isn’t exactly beachy, too neutral-black for that, but all the better to let the sunny demeanour of the staff impress. And it also felt cozy enough to be inside looking out upon the slush piles of St-Laurent Street.

The wine list has loads of reasonably priced bottles and by-the-glass options (check the chalkboard in the back too). The menu lists small and medium dishes, each is sharable, many people do well with three or four, we’re told. The choices beguile: roasted marrow, pork belly confit, sweet chili and garlic chicken wings. Plus novelties like the lemongrass bouillabaisse and vindaloo lamb ribs.

Dishes are brought out consecutively. We started with octopus, one long arm wrapped in a circle atop cucumbers, onions, potato. Yes, most people call octopus appendages tentacles, but technically they’re arms (and while we’re at it, the correct plural really is octopodes, but octopuses will do). Cephalopod lesson done, this arm was perfectly cooked – so tender, so fresh, so enjoyable.

Next came a bowl of Brussels sprouts cooked with miso and bacon, topped with fine bonito flakes that waved as though they were alive. My Brussels sprout-shunning date loved these. I did too, but wondered if a bright note somewhere would alleviate the murky, purely umami flavours.

Following the veg was a bowl of chestnut risotto with cider-braised pork, the dish sweet and cheesy and wonderful. It would have been fun to eat the Brussels sprouts alongside this dish. Although logistically difficult given the variety on the menu, could the kitchen suss out an order and occasionally send out complementary dishes at the same time?

Then we had a plate of three small duck- and hoisin-filled buns, served with some lightly pickled cuke, again the meat beautifully done. We finished up with the vindaloo lamb ribs, heavy with meat, fragrant with spice.

The cook-owner, Stéphane Bouzaglou, is truly a maestro of meat. He recently worked at Ferreira Café, and before that with Daniel Boulud in NYC. Bouzaglou’s deft touch in the kitchen and welcoming restaurant makes for a very fine visit. Sure, I’d happily lounge on a beach in the Bay of Biscay, but Biarritz in Montreal will certainly do for a break.

Biarritz
4801 St-Laurent; 514-281-2000
Meal for two, including some wine: $100 more or less