Bits and Bites

Bits and Bites

Kouign Amann: Home of pastries so buttery they leak
Photo: Joseph Yarmush

(801 Rachel E., 514-526-7967)

My most recent burger at this please-all Plateau institution was a #4, a slightly gamey deer patty topped with goat cheese. But if you eschew fancy burgers of veal with curry sauce, or lamb with blue cheese, just go for the ever – and rightly – popular classic: beef with emmentallettucetomatomushrooms. Fries are good too, and it’s worth getting some flavoured mayo. For a side of virtue, their nicely dressed regular salads will do, as the chèvre chaud is too-sweetly drizzled with honey. And the chocolate cake to finish? Truly a great – decadent and smooth, with a dollop of whipped cream on the side. 4/5 (Maeve Haldane)

Kouign Amann
(322 Mont-Royal E., 514-845-8813)

The newish owners at this nook of a Plateau bakery concoct two kinds of the eponymous Kouign Amann, a Breton pastry that might as well be called "Just how much butter can we load between layers of dough anyway?" The answer: So much that it’s downright juicy. They also do a beautiful flaky buttery croissant, among the best in town, as well as a very decent almond croissant. If you’re seeking a lunch pick-me-up, try the ham and cheese version, a bit sweet with savoury ham slices, or a chorizo-zucchini mini pizza. Or go healthier with simple but robust panini, hearty slabs of quiche, and raspberry juice. Just go. Eat. Enjoy Montreal at its simplest and finest. 4/5 (Maeve Haldane)

Nouveau Palais
(281 Bernard W., 514-273-1180)

Sometimes when you’re just plain hungry, nothing hits the spot like gentrified North American grub: big gooey pizza, cheeseburgers and poutines, perhaps a BLT, or maybe a club sandwich. No soy-infused balsamic-foamed fennel-mustard curry reduction at this New Palace, no siree Bob! This is one of the few holdouts serving trend-free greasy breakfast specials. They have a liquor licence, and they’re open 24 hours a day, seven days a week – it’s a wonder they even have a lock on the door! The only thing holding back their fourth star is the owners’ avoidance of bottled ketchup – everyone hates those pesky ketchup packets. 3/5 (Peter Horowitz)

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