Raymond Beauchemin hopped on the marriage between beer and food
I met Raymond Beauchemin at the downtown microbrewery Brutopia. He’d arrived minutes before I did and already had a pint of honey beer before him, twinkling in the late afternoon sun’s rays. His crimson-stained hands told of the beets he’d been handling earlier that day, grating them to mix with tagliatelle, sour cream and parsley. For Ray is no mere pub devotee, he’s a cook. And he’s just put out Salut! The Quebec Microbrewery Beer Cookbook, published by Véhicule Press.
Salut! is full of recipes that use locally crafted beer, from French onion soup to tuna teriyaki to blueberry vinaigrette. Ephemeral salmon pie is Ray’s take on his mom’s canned salmon shepherd’s pie, made with salmon fillet and Éphémère fruit ale. He spent two years looking for the perfect beer dessert, and presents concoctions like chocolate stout mousse and cherry zabaglione.
Since his first preadolescent swig from his grandpa’s bottle, Ray’s life has been coloured with hops. In his 20s, he had a simple ambition: to drink a beer in each of the 351 towns in his home state of Massachusetts. By the time he moved up to Quebec in search of his French-Canadian roots, the microbrew revolution had a firm toehold in Montreal. Upstarts like Le Cheval Blanc, Les Brasseurs GMT (Belle Gueule) and Les Brasseurs du Nord (Boréale) had been pouring on tasty suds and educating the province’s palate since the ’80s.
Quebec microbrewers produce over 75 different kinds of beer – from Belgian-style ales to wheat beers to oatmeal stouts. The only other North American regions with as much variety are New England and California, with at least ten times our population.
Ray’s tastes roam large. If he’s out for an evening he’ll sample three or four kinds, ending with a darker beer. "I don’t understand brand loyalty to innocuous beer," he says. Big-name brews give the poor lad a headache.
Ray’s brew cooking grew from his preparing nosh at home for the family. He was already making beer (he received a home-brew kit as a wedding present from none other than his bride), and thoughtfully pairing beers to his meals (Indian pale ale with curry, stout with oysters). Why not cook with beer instead of wine?
Beer has a salubrious effect. "For years doctors told pregnant women to drink beer, because of the yeast," Ray says. It’s a great source of vitamins, and no doubt helped monks get through the Lenten fasts without perishing, he points out. Did you really think the holy men only drank water with their bread?
Salut! has sections on beer styles, Quebec brewing history, and pairing cheese with beer (you can think of beer as liquid bread, after all). Where wine and cheese work together because their tastes counterpoint each other, beer and cheese actually mix together. If the combination doesn’t work you can tell right away, like with blue cheese and a hoppy, bitter beer. "The rule of thumb is strong with strong and mild with mild," Ray says, "or you can search for something that is more complementary, or try to contrast." His fave combos? "Harder cheese and darker beers – take an old cheddar and marry that with Maudite, or maybe an Oka Classic with Trois Pistoles."
"What I would love to know is how it all started," says Ray. "We all have these stories: Thousands of years ago in Mesopotamia, some woman left bread out in the rain." But who really knows how beer came about? All we can do now is kick back with a good pint and some grub, and be glad that it did.
Brutopia
1219 Crescent, 393-9277
www.brutopia.net
Visit www.vehiculepress.com/salut for snippets and info, and news on upcoming beer tastings to launch Salut!
21 comments
Brutopia is a great place that I’ve been haunting for a while now and I wholeheartedly recommend as an oasis away from the stress of living. I wish Raymond Beauchemin’ Salut! The Quebec Microbrewery Beer Cookbook all the success because as a beer and guiness drinker I welcome any insight into this fine beverage!
I have a Homer Simpson beer bottle opener that shouts this every time we open a bottle of beer. We can unscrew them, but we love to hear Homer shout out so happily. We enjoy a good bottle of beer and I am looking forward to try brutopia with my husband as a special treat. I just hope there is a well ventilated non smoking section so we can enjoy it without being polluted as in most bars and restaurants these day.
I have long had an appreciation for good quality beer, and I am not sure why beer isn’t as highly revered as wine. Beer has many qualities to be appreciated, and Quebecers are lucky to have so many micro-breweries around. I have never been to Brutopia, being a bit suspicious of bars on Crescent St., but it does actually sound like my kind of place. What better way to spend an evening than with a good quality beer in cozy surroundings?
As amazing as it is to see an article about my favorite pub – it was probably better suited for the BOOKS section than the FOOD. Almost nothing was said about- what Brutopia is like at all.. so here it is.
Brutopia offers a great selection of homebrewed beers and ales- of all kinds from Raspberry Creme ( which isn’t as “girly” as it sounds – it’s actually quite cool ) to Oatmeal Stout- and carries such diverse “brands” such as IPA. The atmosphere is warm, collegiate, music kind of WHITE STRIPES-ish, cool, fun – and just makes you feel like you belong. A few nights a week- you can see great live bands of all shapes and sizes. Food is ok- it fills you up- but what you really come here for- is the BEER- which is excellent by the way.
Pints are cheap- and the women are hot !
You know from the moment you walk into Brutopia that it HAS to be a great spot, because you can never seem to find a bloody seat! That said, the atmosphere is always nothing but friendly, and when it comes to Brutopia, I never mind standing until a seat is vacated…
The beer is quite cheap for a micro, and you’ve not truly tasted quality beer until you try their raspberry blonde. Their India pale is also really good, though the Raspberry Blonde usually keeps me for the evening.
Just don’t try the stout – it has this odd soy-sauce aftertaste…
I highly recommend Brutopia to anyone who just wants to go to a friendly pub with a great atmosphere, where you’re not surrounded by twelve-year olds sneaking in, and where you can actually TALK over the music without strep-throat the next day.
Fermented grains, fruits and honeys have been a staple in the human diet for thousands of years. From Sumerian and Babylonian tablets we have records of beer’s importance in nutrition, medicine and trade. It has long been related to spirituality as well as to celebration. And since the first brewers were women – priestesses, it is sure that the magic of beer has graced our recipes and enhanced our enjoyment of life during all that time.
I like a good wine. But really good wine, bottled thousands of miles away, is generally beyond my monetary and ecological budgets. The evening meal, however, would not be complete without the complement of a good beer. Thanks to our many fine local microbrewers, we do not have to overstretch our ecological footprint to give proper company to our supper. And with Mr. Beauchemin’s cookbook, maybe even more of the fine spirits of the local brew will soon frequent our plates.
Beer–it does the body good.
It’s been a while since this site’s food section has had anything that truly tickles my fancy but damn if it didn’t hit paydirt with this one! Beer is one of my favorite things, right next to Whiskey, women and curling.
Now that I know about the book I’ve got to buy it, although a part of me wonders why this wasn’ t put in the books section. Anyhow, cheers!
Brutopia is a really nice and cozy place. Friendly atmosphere, nice people and nice staff too!There are many different types of beer to choose from and more than enough kinds to satisfy that most particular beer drinker. Local bands play there so you get your fair share of live entertainment. There are two levels and of course 2 bars serving drinks, so you don’t have to feel left out if you go upstairs (where the bathrooms are incidentally). I especially like the fact that not a lot of people smoke in the bar. If you smoke, then you can always step outside which isn’t too far away in this small cozy place. I have known about Brutopia for years, bring some friends, soak up the atmosphere and have a great time!
I remember a story I heard about apples. Someone in Rougemont thought it was possible to make a good cider. Indeed he did and won the First place in a world contest. He could have been proud and stay still with the World best cider. But he didn’t and started to work on a Calvados type beverage and was right on again.
Of course because of the weather we would not be able to obtain such result with wine. But beer, ahhh that’s a different story. We have produced great beers and I know I like to taste different kind. The Microbrewery brand are not that expensive and they are delicious. I do believe I had better discussions with microbrewery products than I had around Molson or Labatt products. I would compare industrial beer and Microbrewery to the Industrial Revolution and Carpenters. Okay the big players produce high volume of the product and it’s affordable. But if you want the unique taste, the special something you still have to go with the little guys. Of course some of our brewers are getting bigger and bigger but it would be greedy not to let the rest of the world taste their brand.
I am glad I took time to read this article. I will visit Brutopia soon enough as I was visiting l’Inox when I studied in Quebec City. You can also take a bet that I’ll try to have a look at that cookbook and the recipes it contain. I am glad I found a job again. Boy can life be miserable when you can not afford a good beer once in a while. That being said, I still enjoy all kind of beer, be it microbrewery or World biggest brewer.
I hate Crescent street and the crowd that hangs around there – you know, the guys dressed in black, with greased up black hair and black cars – but I like Brutopia. Once you get inside Brutopia, it doesn’t feel like you’re on Crescent anymore.
For having been to there many times, I can think of two main qualities: the beer is good and it’s got a friendly atmosphere. Now, in Montreal, it’s easy to get good beer, especially in all the “micro-brewery” bars, but in my opinion Brutopia has some of the best home-made beer in town. As for the atmosphere, it’s a pretty friendly place, the service is great and the crowd, mostly composed of “McGill types” just wants to have a good time, so it’s not likely you can pick a fight there (which is an exception for Crescent street). Plus, they have good rock shows on weekends.
In every commercials on tv, the party is on the run, fun, fun, fun, enjoy yourself with a lot
of friends, all happy, cute, slim and bright, the good life with energy and refreshment, no line
waiting to the restrooms, nobody sick or fighting , just joy to the world and piece on earth
everywhere and dream a little bit of dream. To much 5%alc/vol. beer bottles and the party’s over, no more friends around, loosing control and makes the music down load,
think about it before driving back home if you want to see next beer’s publicity alive during
Canadian Idols.
Regarding who invented or discovered beer, lots of people agree that it probably came from Egypt, not Mesopotamia. We could spend hours debating the whole issue. Anyhow, Egyptians called their brew “zythum”. With a “z” and a “y” in the same word, this word can come in handy for those beer-drinkers who also like to play Scrabble.
As for virtues attributed to beer, we could also debate for many hours. In a time not so long ago, porter or stout was prescribed by family doctors to help cure weak infants. Hey, if it’s good for kids, how could it be harmful to grow-ups ? And besides, when your physician tells you what to do, who wants to say otherwise ?
Cheers !
Brutopia is an exellent bar to unwind, and relax. Like many of the other commenters mentioned, when you walk into this bar, you forget entirely that you’re on Crescent street. For those who said that all the bars on Crescent are the same, I beg to differ. Brutopia is reasonably cheap, and feels completely different from the other bars you’d think of around the area.
I love beer, and I usually just drink Labatt or Molson at home, but going out to Brutopia is a real treat. I prefer the Honey Brown beer myself, but they have such a wide variety for everyone’s taste. The music is nice, I especially like Thursday’s for some live classic Rock with Pat. The upstairs is cute too, there’s a bit of a balcony where you can see the stage below, and some dart boards in the back.
When it comes to cooking with beer though, I think I’d have to pass. I can barely make Jello without burning the house down, (I know how is THAT possible), so I’ll leave it up to the professionals.
Brutopia has such a homely atmosphere and such a great selection of beer and food, that I find it hard to stay for just the one…There are always interesting people to talk to and the staff are genuinely friendly – another attraction!
This is the kind of place where people of all generations are likely to go, but not the usual posers and glammed-up gals you get higher up on Crescent. If you are sick of the usual meat-market with it’s usual crowd and usual beers, head down the street for something a bit more interesting
Usually Maeve does great food reviews. I can’t believe she missed the Acme Midnight kitchen that’s run out of Brutopia. Laura Paul makes one of the best blackened catfish sandwiches I’ve ever tasted. Also each day she has a really great special. I think Maeve should go back and review the food.
The book sounds great, I cook and eat with beer frequently. However, I was disapointed to read an article about Brutopia in the food column, without the least regard for the actual food available there.
This is a great spot for crescent street, where unlike the rest of the street, the variety, quality and price of beers are incomparable. It should also be noted that the food, offered by “ACME Midnight”, is equally good. The menu at Brutopia is very diverse, affordable and continually evolving. I think it would have been appropriate to give them some mention.
Cheers
You failed to mention the FANTASTIC food provided by the lovely Chef Laura,which is always incredible!!
For shame!!!
Hi there;
Just like to say that I’ve been running the kitchen at Brutopia for just over two years now. It’s a separate business from the bar, and we try to keep things interesting and different from what other pubs are serving food wise. Though we do offer burgers and nachos (very popular!) we also have a different homemade soup and special every day, and some very nice blackened catfish and so forth. It is my hope that Bru’s reputation as a destination for food as well as terrific beer and friendly staff will only continue to grow. Sorry, no salmon pie or blueberry vinaigrette! I’ve had a few people stick their heads into my kitchen so far looking for the “guy with the beard who cooks here”. While he’s welcome to come by and guest chef sometime, those looking for a bearded man most evenings will be sorely disappointed!
Kitchen’s open from three till ten Tuesday through Saturday and Fridays noon to midnight. Come say hi.
The nectar of the gods this ain’t but on the other hand, at least it’s not the glorified piss that people insist on guzzling down with alarming ease.
Yes it’s true, I do not like beer. I don’t hate it, I just find it beneath my taste buds. If I’m going to burn brain cells away I’d rather do so with the quality hard stuff. Beer, American or Canadian, just plain sucks. Now, I can easily stomach South American beer or the European stuff what this continent tends to call beer is just plain sad.
BRUTOPIO is one of the few places that gets that beer is supposed to have heft and texture so it always gets my nod despite my stated position.
I don’t care what else they serve here because no one in their right mind comes here to eat.
I’ve got to say, I haven’t always been the biggest fan of beer. But the older I get, the more and more I can appreciate it, and even love it. I don’t know whether that’s because I am being exposed to better beer these days, or my tastes have grown/evolved, or a combination of the two. Whatever the reason, drinking beer (especially on a hot summer day) has definitely a favoured pasttime of mine. I’ve also been discovering a lot of microbrewery beers, many from Quebec. Though I had always heard of Brutopia, I had never gotten the chance to go until recently, and I’ve gotta say – it IS a refreshing alternative to the other offerings of Crescent Street. A nice laid-back environment – with great raspberry beer!
Beer definately has something in it that stirs up our juices! I know I feel more comfortable after sipping down on a nice brewsky between 5 to 7 % in alcohol content. Although wine is definately better than beer, red wine is the best in deed. Either way its been bringing people together for who knows how long now!!!